Get under the skin of Cyprus to discover its sandy beaches and rich history. Its scenic landscapes, dotted with traditional mountain villages and pine scented forests, are perfect for walking and hiking. And along the way there’s fascinating historical sites to explore.
Strike out beyond the sun-soaked stretches of sand to discover an island of compelling culture and landscapes, steeped in myth and riddled with ancient riches.
Blessed with endless blue-sky days and miles of sandy coast, Cyprus is a tourism promoter’s dream. Lazy bucket-and-spade package holidays bring gaggles of Europeans to this Mediterranean idyll every summer. But Cyprus is more than its sand: eschew resorts to rove rural cobblestone villages and explore the jagged heartland, and you’ll discover an alternative island well away from the beach.
Old town exploring: The divided capital of Nicosia (Lefkosia) and North Nicosia (Lefkoşa) has an old-town tumble of skinny lanes, squeezed between the remnants of Venetian walls, leading to medieval churches and Ottoman mosques. In Larnaka, the looping alleyways radiating south from the stout Agios Lazaros Church (in which raised-from-the-dead Lazarus was finally laid to rest) lead to the old Turkish quarter of Skala where white-washed cottages slouch into genteel decay and local artisans such as Emira Pottery have set up shop. In North Cyprus, a honey stone castle glowers down over the tiny old town of Kyrenia (Girne), while the walled old city of Famagusta (Mağusa) is sprinkled with shard-like remnants of Byzantine frippery that speak of a long-gone glorious past.
Nature retreats: Unplug and tune out with an alternative beach holiday on the Karpas (Kırpaşa) Peninsula where wild donkeys graze beside lonely strips of beach and turtles nest in late summer. Don’t want to be so remote? Lashings of Cypriot wilderness can be found in surprisingly easy distance from the hubbub of the coastal resorts. Head out of party town Agia Napa to cycle or walk the coastal paths of Cape Greco. Explore the pine-forest trails of the Troödos Mountains, speckled with wild fennel, from Pafos or Lemesos; or put your twitcher hat on for a trip to Larnaka’s salt marches, where pink clouds of flamingos gather in spring.
Top old towns: In the South, Nicosia; in the North, Famagusta.
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Get in: Cyprus is committed to implementing the Schengen Agreement although it hasn’t yet done so. For citizens of the European Union (EU) or European Free Trade Area (EFTA) (i.e. Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Switzerland), an officially approved ID card (or a passport) is sufficient for entry. Other nationalities will generally require a passport for entry.
Travel to/from any other country (Schengen or not) from/to Cyprus will result in the normal immigration checks, although customs checks will be waived when travelling to/from another EU country.
Inquire with your travel agent or with the local embassy or consulate of Cyprus.
Foodie haunts: Cypriot cuisine is a Mediterranean muddle of Greek, Turkish and Middle Eastern influences that sings with fresh flavours – when it’s done right. To bypass bland meals while in resort centres, it’s usually best to head to the old centre of town. In rural areas don’t underestimate the local village taverna. Dig into meze at Voreas, tuck into kleftiko (oven-baked lamb) at Argo, or sample the sun-soaked taste of Cyprus on a plate at Stou Kir Yianni.
Local village stays: One of the best ways to get to a feel for rural Cyprus is to spend time in one of the island’s snoozy villages, which seem to exist in a cobblestoned time-warp where life slows down to snail pace. Dally awhile amid the caramel-hued alleys of Lofou at the rural-chic retreat of Apokryfo. Spend a day or two exploring the Maheras Forest region with its lace-making village of Lefkara and nearby Neolithic site of Choirokoitia, while staying at Gabriel House. Or fully immerse yourself into Troödos mountain life by basing yourself at To Spitiko tou Arhonta.
Crossing the Green Line
Crossing the Green Line between South Cyprus and North Cyprus or vice versa is a stress-free experience these days and you can cross back and forth as many times as you like. There are seven border points; the simplest to use are the two pedestrian-only crossings (Ledra Street and Ledra Palace Hotel) between Nicosia and North Nicosia. At all crossings you simply show your passport. On entering North Cyprus you have to fill out an official visa form, which must be kept for when you leave.